Here’s a quote by [Sissel Tolaas]: ‘SoftWear: If you can measure that of which you speak and express it in numbers, you know something of your subject, but if you cannot measure it, your knowledge is meagre and unsatisfactory.’
[ST] So measuring smell is a way of getting information about certain things. In this project it was about getting information about people’s self-image and self-perception, and what role smell might play in this. I asked inhabitants of Montpellier in the South of France… to bring their favourite garments that they had been wearing for a period of time. The garments were analysed by me for their content of smells. A lot of people came saying things like, ‘It’s no problem. I wear Chanel No. 5. I am safe….’ And this is exactly what I wanted to find out and comment on. I said, ‘Listen, we communicate smell in our society through perfume. But smell is much more complex; you gather molecules wherever you move.’ … I wanted to show what happens when you move around and how much information I can get out of you just by sitting here and smelling you. After having analysed 350 garments, I turned the clothes inside out, removed all the labels and replaced them with a label with the contents of all the smells I could track on each garment. … People were so upset. … Most people didn’t want them back. They said, ‘If this is how I smell, then no way. This coat is over for me.’ One woman was even so upset, she tried to sue Chanel. She said, ‘I have been wearing Chanel No. 5 all my life and if this is how I smell, then Chanel doesn’t camouflage that I have a dog, that I love sushi… No way am I ever going to wear Chanel No. 5 ever again; they promised me something else.’
[MK] Here the label reads: ‘SoftWear: Prada Coat Made in 1994. Dark Green Wool. Worn 32 Times. Travelled to Tokyo, New York, Bergen, Nuke, Johannesburg and Berlin. Contains 12% Chanel Number 5; 2% Dog Shit, German Shepherd; 5% Soy Sauce…’
[ST] And much more…
[MK] And things that people generally want to cover up, like 30% sweat, or dog shit or Background Jil Sander aftershave on your Prada coat.
[ST] You know, the aftershave she tried to cover up with perfume, because she didn’t want her husband to know she was having an affair… I asked her, ‘What kind of aftershave does your husband wear?’ And she said, ‘No, he never wears any. How come you smell Background Jil Sander?’ And I said, ‘Okay… no comment.’ It makes a human being much interesting, doesn’t it? [MK] Well, it reveals everything they try to hide or that they think they don’t carry with them when they present themselves because people can’t see it.
MonoKultur special on Sissel Tolaas, pp27-29.